justDIY Project Log

Thoughts, ideas, projects, pictures.
 
 
 

Some space to write down what I was thinking about when I designed or photographed something.

LED Cube

December 30th, 2007 by justDIY

I was trying come up with something impressive to write about, after having the blog dormant since July. I tossed around a lot of different ideas… Although I haven’t been writing, I’ve been dabbling in a number of different projects. None of them are really in a state I’m ready to write about. That brings me to something I saw a few months ago on MAKE:. Bre and associates had constructed a simple 3×3x3 led cube, re-purposing a POV toy to drive the leds.

I figured this would be a good easy project I could finish in a day, so I drilled out a piece of pine board and set to soldering up some 3mm leds. I wasn’t very careful, so the little matrices look kind of ugly, but it all works and you can’t see the wires in the dark!

3x3 led matrix building

It didn’t take very long to toss three of these nine led matrices together. Assembling them into a twenty-seven led cube was a bit trickier. I used some gator clips to hold parts of the cube while I soldered it. Eventually I finished all the connections and had a passable cube with fairly even spacing.

3x3x3 led cube finished

Assembling the matrix is a pretty straight forward task. All you really do is tie all the cathodes together. Each matrix will become one row in the finished cube. Electrically, the cube is built as a 3×9 array, three rows and nine columns. You could probably build it the other way around, anode rows and cathode columns, but it is easier to sink a large current than source it. I think the MAKE: software only lights one led at a time, since they’re relying on the microcontroller to both source and sink current. My design is a bit different. The mcu sources current to each anode column, and N channel fets sink current for the entire row. The N channel is easily able to sink a few amps, so the cube can light an entire row at once without having to multiplex the individual leds.

In order to keep the PCB layout simple, the connections are spread all over the place in terms of the registers inside the pic. It would have been cleaner to organize eight of the nine columns as a single 8bit register on the pic, leaving only one bit left over to deal with. Instead, I’ve created symbols for each column, and set them individually from 9bit numbers.

Each anode column is current limited by a 75 ohm resistor. The value chosen was rather arbitrary, since the leds have such a low duty cycle, a lower value would have afforded me more brightness when the cube is battery powered. I can tweak the brightness a bit in the software, changing the scan rate the rows are multiplexed at.

That’s pretty much it. I’ve found there’s not a lot you can do with only 3×3x3 and 1 color, but it’s still kind of fun. Trying to think in three dimensions while drawing the animation frames is kind of tricky. I started with excel, but that wasn’t very useful - I spent more time copy and pasting formulas than I did ‘drawing’. Luckily my buddy Dan helped me out with that. He whipped up an awesome little php script that lets you draw animations 27 leds at a time, and it formats the resulting numbers so I can copy and paste them right into the code.

There’s a few videos of the cube doing various things on my Youtube Channel. Here is perhaps the most interesting one so far.

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Dry reading

July 31st, 2007 by justDIY

The next few months might bring some dry reading for the visitors to my blog. The camera I do 99% of my photographic work with has died silently sometime this past week. It’s not that the camera is dead, but it might as well be, as it appears the imaging chip has failed, or the circuitry that processes the signal from the chip.

Here’s a shot of the sprinkler controller I’ve been working on.

That picture was taken in a sun lit room, with overhead lights and a work lamp on. Plus the camera’s AI fired the flash at full power.

I’ll be contacting Nikon regarding repair, but unfortunately, I’m pretty sure it’s the end of the line for this cam. With 3rd quarter taxes coming shortly, I’m not in a position to make a big purchase right now, so it might be a few months before I get a new cam.

If I get desperate enough, you might see some awful pictures from my cellphone on here!

Addendum:

The camera in question is a Nikon Coolpix 5700, which is listed as one of the models affected by the Sony ccd failure problem

Update:

Although my problem doesn’t fit the description of the current “service advisory”, Nikon is going to check it out. At best they’ll repair it for free, at worst, they’ll give me a quote on repairs. If it’s within the price range of a new ‘throwaway’ digital, I’ll get it fixed. Otherwise I might just grab an HP / Epson / “insert brand-x here” throwaway to get me by until I can buy something nicer.

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Capacitive Sensing Continued

July 30th, 2007 by justDIY

Hello readers from MAKE: as well as all other readers :)

My prototype touch sensor worked so well, that it hasn’t needed much changing. I sent the design off to Custom PCB, and less than a week later, I had a pile of circuit boards waiting for me.

I changed the layout around a little, mostly adding a 2×8 header for accepting a ribbon cable style connection. The header combines power, ground and outputs into a single connection, making it easier to connect to the main board of my larger project (sprinkler controller). Each touch output is paired with a ground wire, which I suppose makes it more resistant to interference. The caps I used this time are polyester film 220 nF, doubling the amount of capacitance compared to what was used on the prototype.

Yes, the ugly piece of plexi is still ugly. Don’t worry, it will be hidden from view. In the final configuration, this board and its plexiglas spacer will be inside a plastic project box. I’ll have a laminated “keypad” overlay affixed to the outside of the box so I can see where the buttons are. The spacer will be flipped around, going on the solder side, giving me enough clearance to flush-mount the sensor with the wall of the box. Flush mount is very important, as even the slightest air-gap will ruin the proximity sensing effect.

Nothing much to see solder side… a few smt passives set options on the chip, as well as decouple and filter the incoming power. The big resistor limits current for the meager power led which no one will ever see once the board is in use.

I’m very close to finishing the larger irrigation control project, hopefully sometime this week! Thanks for reading!

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