Single Character LED SIGN

Apr 12
Posted by justDIY Filed in Display, LEDs, Microcontroller, Project

We’ve all seen the various sites where someone put a massive led sign online, and they let people abuse it. What I’ve managed to build is a “single character” led sign. I don’t know if I’ll be able to get my sign online, but I’ll take a stab at it.

After wasting a lot of time to convert a font table I borrowed from somewhere, my little sign finally had a built in character generator. It can generate any of the printable original ascii characters (dec 32 to 127), and display them on the matrix. Data feeds into the sign at 4800 baud (I think i mentioned 19200 earlier – way too fast), and is displayed on the matrix for a few seconds.

If the display sits idle for too long, a basic screen saver (screen waster?) kicks in, and does a simple animation. Any received characters replace the animation and reset the screen saver timeout.

Although exposed, I haven’t implemented the i2c interface yet. This pc board has some issues, and is too large. I don’t like the connectors sticking out to the side like that, so it’s back to the cad package to try and re-arrange things a bit. I think I will fork this design into two separate paths. One async serial (rs232), and one sync serial (i2c / spi). The sync version would be used as a display for other projects. The async version would be hooked up to a PC, and programmed with a simple message. Once detached, the display would just repeat the message over and over. One problem I ran into is storage. I had hoped to store text strings and the font table in eeprom, but the processor I chose, the 16f737 has no on-board eeprom. So instead, the font table is stored in the flash program space along with a few short text strings. The next revision(s) of the board will include a spot for a so8 ‘seeprom’ for extra storage.

Popularity: 21% [?]

LED Matrix Backpack

Apr 10
Posted by justDIY Filed in Display, LEDs, Microcontroller, Project, Prototyping

I had purchased some huge (2″) 5×7 matrix a while ago, as part of my led sensor research. They’ve basically been banging around the lab since, getting pins bent and such. So this past weekend, I decided to put them to some other use. Their pin layout is sort of weird, it doesn’t match up with a breadboard at all (one of the reasons they never made it into the led research). So, I decided to make up some back-packs for them, or is it a carrier board? Anyway, the board features one 5×7 matrix, one pic 16f737, a few transistors and some data connectors. The board provides two means of serial communication; asynchronous rs232 at 19200 bps, or synchronous i2c at 100kbps. A second connector provides power and ICSP pins.

5x7 led matrix backpack

This project has no practical application as of yet. The main reason I made it was to improve on my double-sided pcb fab techniques. This time I found using point to point traces instead of a large “pour” made things work a lot smoother. I used the ‘sandwich’ method with press ‘n’ peel blue. Roughly 1.5 min per side.

5x7 serial led matrix backpack

One thing I had to keep in mind while doing this layout was accessibility to solder both sides, since I can’t through plate my own vias. So things had to be laid down in specific order. I soldered the vias first, using some cheap resistors with very fine leads as my conductors. The method involved sticking the resistor into the via, with just a bit poking out the other side, then bending the resistor 90 degrees and holding it to the board. Then a quick dab of solder onto each joint set them in place. Next, straighten out the resistor leads, and trim them off. Another quick few dabs with the soldering iron and each one was fully connected. Next came the smt parts. The switches were rather easy, but those blasted little 0603 capacitors always give me grief. I tin both pads, then apply a bit more flux as “glue”, then try to reheat one of the pads, to reflow the solder onto the part. It works great with 0805 and larger parts, but the little 0603 usually gets sucked onto the tip of the iron by the surface tension of the solder.

One hard choice I had to make was whether to solder the chip straight into the board, or use a socket. I opted for a socket, which meant a harder time soldering the “top” layer. Luckily, I was able to dig up some 14 pin machine pin sockets, and thanks to the machine pin itself, they stand proud of the board a little, just enough to sneak in with the soldering iron.

For whatever reason, I decided to solder the led display next, leaving the connectors for last. I partly wanted to see which side of the board the connectors would look better on… I think next revision, they’re going on the bottom. During assembly of the connectors, I nicked the display a couple times with the iron, oh well!

Right now, the display is flashing my initials. Oh, here is the schematic, nothing exciting really!

quick video:

Popularity: 27% [?]

Rainbow LED Chaser

Dec 13
Posted by justDIY Filed in Display, LEDs, Microcontroller, Project

I was bored this past sunday, and needed something to ease my racing brain … so I picked an easy project with lots of flash.

The parts list:

Eight Tri-Color or RGB leds … each led package contains three LEDs
Three 74HC595 Shift Registers … serial load, latching. other varieties would probably work too.
One Microcontroller … doesn’t matter what it is, I used a pic18f252 since it was handy.
Twenty-Four Resistors … I used 150 ohm to set my led current at 20mA, but use anything from 56-220 ohms

The tri-color leds I used are wired as common anode LEDs … each led inside the package has its own cathode pin and shares a common anode pin. So, all my anode pins connect to the postive rail on the breadboard. There’s no reason a person couldn’t use twenty-four discrete LEDs, or eight common cathode leds. Since my leds are “active low”, outputting a 0 turns them on, outputting a 1 turns them off… if you used common cathode leds, they would be “active high”, a 1 would turn them on and a 0 off. If you used discrete leds, well, hook ‘em all up one way or the other.

Next comes the connections to the shift registers. Think of each register as a chip containing eight switches you can turn on or off remotely. Each of the 24 LEDs gets connected to an output on the register, and they need to be grouped by color and kept in order. So looking at the picture below, working left to right, I connected all the red leds to the first register, all the blue to the second, all the green to the third. This resulted in the rats nest of wires you see between the chips and the leds. Concerning the registers themselves, they have three connections of up-most importance. Pin seven is the ground connection, pin fourteen is the +5v connection, and pin thirteen is the enable or tri-state pin. The tri-state pin must be tied to ground in order for the outputs on the register to work. Next up is the data connections. The 595 offers a nifty feature of serial pass-through. Using this feature, you can chain a bunch of them together, and treat them as a large number (in the programming). This is done with the QH* and SER pins. QH* connects to SER on the next ic ‘down stream’. On the first IC (the rightmost in my picture), SER connects to the microcontroller. Now in order to ‘load’ the chips with serial data, the microcontroller has generate a ‘clock’ for all the chips to sync to. This clock signal is transmitted on the SCK (serial clock) line. All three SCK lines are wired in parallel to the microcontroller. Last, since we want the data to be retained by the registers, even if the pic stops transmitting, we need to latch the data. This is controlled by the last data line, RCK. When the microcontroller is finished transmitting data, it needs to pulse the latch clock RCK high briefly. Upon receiving this signal, the registers display the data which they just received, and continue to display it until told otherwise. I have some other lines connected, but don’t use them… they are the SCLR line, which clears the data from the buffers, and the enable line. The microcontroller keeps the enable line high (disabling the registers outputs) until it is read to start sending commands… this prevents the registers from powering up with weird random data being displayed.

That’s it for the hardware side … really simple. All the magic happens in software… which I will write about in part two (yes, I’ll post the code too). As a spoiler, all the software does is boolean math, shifting and inverting 8-bit words of 1′s and 0′s around.

Here is the breadboard:
rgb led microcontroller 74hc595 shift register
The parts in the grayed out areas are just stuff left over on the breadboard from an earlier project, or support components for the microcontroller.

Here are some videos:
Initial Test Program:

Chasing effect:

UPDATE:
Due to all the connections (24 of them between the registers and the LEDs), drawing a schematic can get messy. I chose to avoid this mess by using Eagle “BUS” feature, which allows a large number of signals to be combined into one wire. The schematic below is drawn using a much less expensive and smaller PIC than the one pictured in the breadboard … however the idea is still the same.

74hc595 shift register microcontroller rgb led chaser

Here is the source code (in BASIC of course) for the “center pulse” effect, it’s pretty much just taking binary patters of 1′s and 0′s and moving them around to create the ‘animation’.

click to download centerpulse.bas

Popularity: 49% [?]

Long Time, No See

Dec 13
Posted by justDIY Filed in Display, General, Interface, LEDs, Microcontroller, Project

Sorry I’ve been neglecting my blog!

I’ve been doing a lot of reading and research, as well as playing with a new toy.

Here are the top-5 items in my current project queue, sorted by priority:

1) LED backlit Rooster Project – Christmas Gift
2) High-End LED under cabinet lights – Christmas Gift
3) Rainbow LED chaser – New Toy / Fun Project
4) LEDs as Sensors – Interface Project
5) LED Matrix Display – 8×8 display modules

I’ll write more about the rainbow chaser tonight (I promise!)… The backlit rooster is just a cheezy Christmas gift I hope to do up cheap for someone who likes roosters and chickens in their kitchen decor. The high-end under cabinet lights are based on Nichia Jupiter LEDs – this project is currently in the very early design stages. I hope to get a proof of concept prototype built by xmas. LED as Sensors is sort-of stuck – I became obsessed with trying to build a large sensor array, but decided today, I don’t need a large sensor array… so I’ll regroup and start a fresh with actual application development for the sensors as I have them now, and worry about building them larger down the road. The LED matrix display will probably never get built, I just had some fun drawing up the designs… Once I priced out the cost to build them, my interest diminished (64 super flux LEDs for each module, 10-16 modules for a good sized display!).

Popularity: 13% [?]

Iron in the Fire II

Nov 29
Posted by justDIY Filed in Display, LEDs, Project

In my previous post, I write about an LED matrix for a marquee. The display itself is a two-board solution, the second board or ‘daughterboard’ piggy-backs on some pin headers from the display board. This second PCB provides the control interface and logic for handling these 64 leds, and passing along control data to any upstream displays.

led matrix display schematic diagram

The controller uses a 595 shift register to provide the ON/OFF control for each of the eight columns. To provide maximum current to these columns, I have used the ULN2803 current-sink driver. The 2803 is basiclly a darlington array which uses a small current to sink up to 500mA, on each channel… and it has 8 channels. So if I really blast my piranha LEDs with their bleeding edge maximum current of 80mA and the data called for all eight columns to be active at once, the entire column would need a total sink of 640mA! I believe the 595 alone can only sink 200mA. The daughterboard has no circuitry on it for controlling the rows of the matrix – they are just wired in parallel to the daisy chain connectors, which will connect it to a current source on the ‘master control’ or interface board. I plan to use some P-Channel mosfets to handle sourcing potentionally several amps of current. For example, if I connect sixteen of these modules together, and want to turn an entire row on at once, that is 128 LEDs, each drawing 80mA, for a grand total of 10.24A. Wow, that is a lot of power, my goodness, good thing I have a bunch of old AT style switching power supplies laying around, with 15-20A on their 5v rails.

The 595 shift register is just a set of switches, which are set through a synchronous serial interface – a big long string of 1′s and 0′s is clocked out of whatever ends up controlling this marquee (most likely a PIC microcontroller). Each register takes eight bits, thats why I went with eight columns. So if I build a sign with sixteen of these modules, I’ll be pushing 128 bits out a serial port. The entire register will need to be updated for every row, so an entire refresh will take 128 * 8 bits or 1024 bits. At 20mHz, my pic can clock a bit out every two microseconds, so refreshing the entire marquee would take roughly 2.1 milliseconds. A frame rate of 30FPS should be entirely possible, since 1/30th of a second is approximately 33 mS, that leaves a LOT of extra time for the pic to take a nap with… and if I go crazy and build some huge mother of an array, I can beef the pic up to 48mHz, hammering those bits out more than twice as fast.

The display modules are ‘modular’. Daisy-chain connectors provide pass-through of the row current, and data-control signals from the microcontroller. The D-IN port connects the ‘upstream’ registers serial output (QH*) to the current registers serial input (SER), the D-OUT port connects this registers serial output to the next registers input. The rest of the signals are straight parallel. Only changes in the software of the microcontroller would be required to add or subtract display modules from the finished array.

The pcb design and layout is ‘diy compatible’ I’ve used all through-hole components, and jumpers instead of via’s. If I send these out to be fabbed, I’ll probably change the signal routing around, switching the jumpers to vias, perhaps I’ll go with smt ICs, depends on how the layout works out… I might keep the through-hole because I like being able to run signals between the pins and under the ICs, which is hard to do when they’re tiny! The notations “dont move” are just to remind myself (or anyone else) that you can’t move the ARx (anode row) and CGx (column group) connectors, because they’re specificly positioned to mate with the display board.

composite pcb layout image
composite image of controller layout and top+bottom layers.

same disclaimer as my earlier post, these designs and images are not public domain… please read the disclaimer in my earlier post.

Popularity: 57% [?]