Single Character LED SIGN

We’ve all seen the various sites where someone put a massive led sign online, and they let people abuse it. What I’ve managed to build is a “single character” led sign. I don’t know if I’ll be able to get my sign online, but I’ll take a stab at it.

After wasting a lot of time to convert a font table I borrowed from somewhere, my little sign finally had a built in character generator. It can generate any of the printable original ascii characters (dec 32 to 127), and display them on the matrix. Data feeds into the sign at 4800 baud (I think i mentioned 19200 earlier – way too fast), and is displayed on the matrix for a few seconds.

If the display sits idle for too long, a basic screen saver (screen waster?) kicks in, and does a simple animation. Any received characters replace the animation and reset the screen saver timeout.

Although exposed, I haven’t implemented the i2c interface yet. This pc board has some issues, and is too large. I don’t like the connectors sticking out to the side like that, so it’s back to the cad package to try and re-arrange things a bit. I think I will fork this design into two separate paths. One async serial (rs232), and one sync serial (i2c / spi). The sync version would be used as a display for other projects. The async version would be hooked up to a PC, and programmed with a simple message. Once detached, the display would just repeat the message over and over. One problem I ran into is storage. I had hoped to store text strings and the font table in eeprom, but the processor I chose, the 16f737 has no on-board eeprom. So instead, the font table is stored in the flash program space along with a few short text strings. The next revision(s) of the board will include a spot for a so8 ‘seeprom’ for extra storage.

LED Matrix Backpack

I had purchased some huge (2″) 5×7 matrix a while ago, as part of my led sensor research. They’ve basically been banging around the lab since, getting pins bent and such. So this past weekend, I decided to put them to some other use. Their pin layout is sort of weird, it doesn’t match up with a breadboard at all (one of the reasons they never made it into the led research). So, I decided to make up some back-packs for them, or is it a carrier board? Anyway, the board features one 5×7 matrix, one pic 16f737, a few transistors and some data connectors. The board provides two means of serial communication; asynchronous rs232 at 19200 bps, or synchronous i2c at 100kbps. A second connector provides power and ICSP pins.

5x7 led matrix backpack

This project has no practical application as of yet. The main reason I made it was to improve on my double-sided pcb fab techniques. This time I found using point to point traces instead of a large “pour” made things work a lot smoother. I used the ‘sandwich’ method with press ‘n’ peel blue. Roughly 1.5 min per side.

5x7 serial led matrix backpack

One thing I had to keep in mind while doing this layout was accessibility to solder both sides, since I can’t through plate my own vias. So things had to be laid down in specific order. I soldered the vias first, using some cheap resistors with very fine leads as my conductors. The method involved sticking the resistor into the via, with just a bit poking out the other side, then bending the resistor 90 degrees and holding it to the board. Then a quick dab of solder onto each joint set them in place. Next, straighten out the resistor leads, and trim them off. Another quick few dabs with the soldering iron and each one was fully connected. Next came the smt parts. The switches were rather easy, but those blasted little 0603 capacitors always give me grief. I tin both pads, then apply a bit more flux as “glue”, then try to reheat one of the pads, to reflow the solder onto the part. It works great with 0805 and larger parts, but the little 0603 usually gets sucked onto the tip of the iron by the surface tension of the solder.

One hard choice I had to make was whether to solder the chip straight into the board, or use a socket. I opted for a socket, which meant a harder time soldering the “top” layer. Luckily, I was able to dig up some 14 pin machine pin sockets, and thanks to the machine pin itself, they stand proud of the board a little, just enough to sneak in with the soldering iron.

For whatever reason, I decided to solder the led display next, leaving the connectors for last. I partly wanted to see which side of the board the connectors would look better on… I think next revision, they’re going on the bottom. During assembly of the connectors, I nicked the display a couple times with the iron, oh well!

Right now, the display is flashing my initials. Oh, here is the schematic, nothing exciting really!

quick video:

My oh my how time flies!

My apologies for not writing in some time. It’s certain not for lack of things to write about. I guess I’ve just been lazy lately. I don’t have anything specific to write about right now, but I wanted to make myself a list of things I need to document.

1) Art Light – Dec 2006
Decorative lighting for framed 3D art.

2) Mint Light – Dec 2006
Ultra small yet bright and versatile flashlight

3) LCD Adapter – Dec 2006 – Janurary 2007
Serial backpack for common parallel lcds

4) MintyBoost XL – Dec 2006 – Mar 2007
Twenty watt-hour portable power source

5) Cupric Chloride – Mar 2007
Experiments in alternative etching solutions

6) Toner Transfer – Mar 2007
Rethinking my bias against toner transfer

7) Stepper Motors – April 2007
Re-using an old paperweight.

There’s probably more I’m forgetting, hopefully I’ll amend this list when they spring to mind.

Big Ugly SMPS

Usually my designs strive to create tiny boards, and I often obsess for days fine-tuning, shaving a fractions of an inch at a time. However, this design goal was get it done, get it working, then make it pretty.

I’ve been trying to build a switcher to provide a portable power source for PDA’s, cell-phones, etc. Not just enough to trickle charge said gizmo for hours, but to charge it as fast as possible, like the cradle or wall plug would do. This requires quite a bit of power. Packaging portable power is proving very tricky. There’s two main design goals I’m trying to meet. My primary goal the past week has been recharging the power-source, and the easiest way to do this is parallel cells. There’s oodles of charge management chips out there designed to handle charging of single lithium-ion cells (or parallel cells). The complexity knob gets turned WAY up once you start talking series cells. So rather than spin my wheels on this problem, I chose to move forward with goal number two. My secondary design goal is to get the power out. Putting the cells in series opens a wide door for easy to use switchmode converters and controllers. I’ve got a bin full of samples from all the big names, and I’m close to settling on a chip. First to prototype is the TPS5430 from Texas Instruments. This chip claims to have a three-amp switch on board, and it’s pretty easy to use. The switcher is internally compensated, eliminating an RC network often needed to compensate high frequency switchers. The 5430 comes in fixed voltage models, but I went with adjustable this time.


tps5430 schematic

Using TI’s SwiftDesigner to generate a reference design, I drew that up in Eagle. Their reference design specified solid tantalum capacitors, which have properties that lend themselves well to switchmode applications. However, having priced 100+ uF tantalum caps, I’ve decided to use aluminum electrolytic instead. To offset some of the short-comings of aluminum caps, I have connected several in parallel. The main disadvantage is ESR, and wiring caps in parallel cuts the ESR dramatically.

tps5430 printed circuit board

Loosely following TI’s reference layout, I came up with this design. I drew the design using the top layer, and ended up flipping it over when I assembled it. It doesn’t really make a big difference, just as long I remember to solder everything in a mirror image of what’s shown on the screen. For example, the screen shows the input stage on the right, but on the prototype, the input stage is on the left. The reference design called for a single 100uF solid tantalum capacitor rated at 25 volts (I spec’d 14v as VinMax). It also called for a 47uF tant as a bypass cap for the IC. So instead, I went with two 100uF 25v electrolytic caps and one 47uF 16v cap. I realize 16v is cutting it a bit close, but it’s all I could come up with, and this is only a first pass. The output stage called for a single 220uF 10v tant, instead, I drew room for three 100uF caps but only installed two for now. The chip needs a bootstrap cap to help it start-up with low input voltages. The datasheet called for 10nF, so thats what I used. The voltage divider is a 10k resistor coupled with a 10k pot. A resistor and LED were added to show “power on”. The three pin terminal at the bottom is tied to the enable line. Enable should float for normal operation and be pulled low for shutdown. I used a big ‘ol coil I had laying in the parts bin, it was labeled 22uH but the actual inductor is not marked. Looking at the size of the bobbin and heft of the wire, I’d say this inductor can handle some serious current. A three amp schottky diode completes this bit of kit.

With one set of fingers crossed, I hooked the switcher up to a wimpy 200mA 12v wall-wart, used for charging a screwdriver. To my relief the LED came on, nothing started smoking, and the ammeter read 10mA on the 10a scale (later I re-read 13.59mA on the 20mA scale). The datasheet claims 3-4mA of quiescent current, so the switcher is taking 10mA at 12v to supply 20mA at 5v. Although I haven’t done the algebra in the datasheet, comparing watts in to watts out puts the efficiency in the not-bad to pretty good range. (100mw / 120mw = 83%). Better still, when I connected my Dell PDA to the switcher, it was able to supply as much current as the Dell could ask for, without raising above ambient temperature. With a low internal battery, cpu set to 400mhz, external wifi card inserted, backlight full-on, the Dell peaked at 1.1 amps. I left it laying on the bench and watched a movie for a few hours. Coming back, the dell was completely charged, and the output had dropped to about 170mA.

My next goal will be to miniaturize this circuit as best I can, hopefully to fit it into an altoids tin which holds my lithium cells so very nicely.

Switchmode LED Driver

This is the second incarnation of my tps61040 based LED driver (here and here). As I wrote just a few posts ago, I’m trying out a new layout strategy to make my gizmos more breadboard friendly.

The 300 mil (thanks Dave) DIP16 package proves to be very small, so small I had trouble trimming it completely while depanelizing.

tps61040 dip16 boost switchmode led driver

Another problem I ran into is a high voltage output cap. Seeing that this circuit generates upwards of 28 volts, the typical inexpensive ceramic or tantalum capacitors just don’t have the dielectric strength to work well. So, that leaves few options. Option one involves parallel smaller value high voltage caps. I ordered a bunch of 50v 1uF 0603 caps, so we’ll see how that goes. Second option is electrolytic. Sure I’ll incur some losses in the capacitor, dipping the efficiency a bit, but hey, it’s not a perfect world. I found some 10uf 4.3mm x 4mm caps that should do nicely. Third option is expensive ceramic … weighing in at $1 to $5 ea, these caps must be made of lunar rock. I have not ordered any of these, but I will look into harvesting some from dead / old electronics.

Notice the cute little inductor. That baby is 10uH, 1 amp, shielded and only 6mm square. Designed for high power applications, it has a generous saturation current, and rather low resistance. Even better, it’s only like 2mm tall, and to top it off is the cost; 59 cents each at quantity 10. In case you’re looking for an easy to use and flexible inductor, the digi-key catalog number is 587-1707-1-ND.

This time, in order to have a simple board layout, I chose to permanently enable the chip, so they’re be no dimming on this version. I’m not sure if the chip supports a hot load disconnect, I did manage to kill my earlier prototype somehow, one of the output leads broke off the pcb while I was holding it, in a dark room. After repairing the damage, I only get a very low output. Perhaps my capacitor or diode was fried.

tps61040 dip16 boost switchmode led driver

Here are the breadboard compatible pins. The three pins are the output area, with the one inboard pin being the led sink, where the current sensing resistor is attached. This layout required two ground pins, and an external jumper to connect them. I’ll remedy that in the next iteration.

This is the little critter doing it’s thing. Do you like that battery brand? SHAZZAM – it just screams power. I bought a BUNCH of these at a traveling tool sale show, 99 cents for 16. They’re not half bad for light loads, this little switcher sucks ’em dry in a mater of hours however!

Fun new pcb layouts.

Testing SMD devices on a breadboard requires some sort of carrier. You can use the dead-bug method, affixing the smd to something, and using bits of wire to solder its tiny pins to larger ones that fit into a breadboard. Another method is using SMD converters, which is fine, but really limits what you can do with the chip, it’s not very portable, and it takes up a LOT of room for very little gain. So, I decided to try re-drawing some of my designs to fit in the footprint of a DIP style package, but be more or less self contained. These self contained modules will work on a breadboard, protoboard or where-ever.

Today’s theme is switchmode power supplies. To start, here is a ‘single cell’ to +5v boost regulator, based on National LM2698. This circuit should accept as little as 2.2 volts and provide a solid five volt output. With 3.6 volts in, it should provide over one amp of current. Thanks to the large capacitors, this module resembles a 28 pin ‘wide’ dip, approximately 600 mil across.

This module is also a ‘single cell’ to +5v boost regulator, based on the petite TPS61040 from Texas Instruments. The chip claims to support voltages as low as 0.9v, but I plan to use it with a single 1.5v AA. The amount of current it will provide is somewhere around 100mA. It can provide up to 500mA using a higher input voltage. This module resembles a 20 pin ‘narrow’ dip, or approximately 300 mil across.

Lastly, this is the smallest design yet. This module resembles a 16 pin ‘narrow’ dip. Also based on TI’s tps61040, this switcher is configured in constant current mode. My prototype design sources 50mA at 23 volts into a string of white LEDs, powered by two AA batteries.

Few new drawings

I’ve been working with a new design these past few days … I’m trying to build a portable power supply / charger for mobile usb devices. Inspired by Lady Ada’s Minty Boost, I set out to build something a bit more powerful. Perhaps I can call it the Minty XL? Alas, that is not the topic of this article. The charger is based on two “modules” which are discussed here. I felt it was a good idea to build these modules as separate units, so I can breadboard them and test out their design, before committing to have a PCB professionally fabricated for the actual charger.

The first module is a boost converter based on the National Semiconductor LM2698. This converter takes 3.6v from the batteries and boosts it to 5v. The converter should supply at least one amp and perhaps as much as 1.3 amps under ideal conditions. To test the design and layout, I’ve designed a small single sided PCB that will plug into a breadboard using a four pin header.

lm2698 boost converter schematic

National supplies the LM2698 as a mini-so8 package, so it’ll be some challenging soldering to do with an iron! Although a 4 pin header was used, there are really only 3 connections. Vi will connect to the batteries or current limiting circuit simulating batteries. Vo is the boost output, which is also indicated by an LED. Two low esr tantalum capacitors provide input and output filtering and some smaller ceramic caps provide decoupling for the IC and a filter for loop compensation. Two resistors form a voltage divider, supplying 1.25v to the feedback circuit of the chip. The coil is a two amp 7mmx7mm shielded ferrite core inductor and the switching diode is just some schottky I picked out of the Digikey catalog.

lm2698 boost converter pcb

What good is a powerful portable charger if its own batteries wear down? The second module for my project is a battery charger based on Maxim’s MAX1811 Li+ Charger. The MAX1811 is designed to be a USB powered charger, which seems a fitting complement to a portable USB charger. In fact, if you visit a dimension were conventional physics don’t apply, the device may be able to recharge itself! Anyway, the MAX1811 based circuit is very simple – the chip does all the heavy lifting of monitoring the cell health, temperature and state of charge.

max1811 usb lithium ion charger schematic

Two capacitors, neither strictly required provide filtering on the input and output of the chip. An on-board LED indicates the charging mode. When the LED is on, the charger is bulk charging the cell, up to 500mA. When the LED is off, the charger is either preconditioning the cell (for severely discharged cells), maintaining the cell, or off. I would have preferred a little more information, but hey, I like simple and this chip is that, the blocking diode is even built in!

max1811 usb lithium ion charger pcb

Thankfully Maxim supplies the MAX1811 in an so8 package, so it should be fairly easy to solder. This small circuit board also plugs into a breadboard using a three pin header. V+ supplies the charger with roughly four to six volts. B+ is the charger output to the battery, and both the battery and supply share a common ground.

Hopefully this weekend I’ll be able to fabricate these circuit-boards and will toss up a few pictures of the finished product.

Breakout Board

As part of my mintlite project, I need to deal with an SO8 package battery charger. So I whipped up a breadboard adapter aka “breakout board” that converts the tiny chip into a 600 mil DIP package. Another battery charger I have is even smaller, packaged as an SOT23-5 part. The breakout converts that tiny grain of rice into a 300 mil DIP package.

Here’s a snapshot:

Cadsoft Eagle BRD files:

SO8 to DIP8

SOT23 to DIP6

Preassembled, these adapters can cost upwards of $6 ea… as “kits”, they’re $1-2 … so here ya go, it’s like printing money!

MintLite Part I – Continued

The huge size of my previous pcb layout kept bugging me … it was about 1.3×1.2″ and would have consumed more than half of the mint tin space! So, I spent few hours coming up with something a little more compact.

This second layout is more compact, but still a bit on the large size; measuring 1.2×0.9″. I won’t be able to make it much smaller, without going double sided, and thats just not something that’s easy to do at home.

I’m not sure what happened to the weekend, but it’s almost over, and I haven’t even dusted off a breadboard yet. Oh well!

MintLite Part I

MintLite – The Luxeon Powered Mint Tin Flashlight!

This idea has been rattling around in my head for more than a month now, and I finally have thought it out enough to do some doodling in Eagle. The basic idea is built around a six watt Luxeon K2. I plan to use a pair of 2.5aH lithium batteries to provide approximately eighteen watt-hours of power. The Luxeon will be controlled by a microcontroller, providing different brightness levels, as well as protecting the luxeon from excessive current when the batteries are fully charged. The microcontroller will also monitor the battery voltage; dimming the light as needed and eventually shutting down completely to prevent over-discharge. The light will contain it’s own battery charger, powered by USB using the MAX1811. The MAX1811 will charge a single lithium cell (or cells in parallel) at up to 500mA off a self-powered USB port. The 1811 allows charging from a bus-powered port as well, but for sake of simplicity, I will ignore that option.

mintlite schematic diagram luxeon max1811 pic microcontroller

The circuit keeps things fairly simple. Switch Q1 provides pwm control of the luxeon. Header SW1 will connect to some sort of switch, for turning the light on and off, and changing brightness. The MAX1811, IC2, takes 4.3 to 6.5 volts as input, and regulates it to 4.2 volts for charging the lithium cells. Charging status is indicated by LED2, which will light when the charger is in bulk charging mode (current mode).The microcontroller, IC1, is a PIC12F683. The 683 provides a lot of bells and whistles for such a small chip. I will be using analog input 0 to monitor the battery voltage. General purpose input 2 will monitor the charging status, perhaps to disable charging when the batteries are in bulk charging mode. General purpose input 4 will use an internal pull-up resistor to monitor the switch. General purpose output 5 is controlling a mosfet transistor responsible for PWM of the led.

The pcb layout is in it’s early stages, and designed mainly around parts I have on hand. I don’t think I’ll actually prototype this PCB, since it’s much too large, and the wrong shape. Whether it gets printed or not, it was fun to draw. There are two main things I want to change. First the FET (Q1) in the TO252 package is rated at something like sixty amps – way more than I need for this project. ON Semiconductor has some nice SOT23 fets rated at 4 amps that should fit the bill nicely, and save a lot of space. Secondly, I need to find a smt version of the usb connector, perhaps a mini usb instead.

Hopefully this weekend I’ll be able to breadboard this circuit and see how it all goes together. Stay tuned for “Part II”.